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REVIEW

Fermentation-derived compounds and their impact on skin health and dermatology: A review

Rawan Atef Essmat1 ,  Nour Altalla1 ,  Radwa Abdallnasser Amen2*
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1 Faculty of Pharmacy, Modern University for Information and Technology, Cairo, Egypt
2 Department of Biotechnology, Faculty of Science, Cairo University, Cairo, Egypt
IMO 2025, 2(1), 19–35; https://doi.org/10.36922/imo.5020
Submitted: 1 October 2024 | Revised: 5 November 2024 | Accepted: 21 November 2024 | Published: 27 December 2024
© 2024 by the Author(s). This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution -Noncommercial 4.0 International License (CC-by the license) ( https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/ )
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Abstract

Fermented plant extracts have recently become popular ingredients in various cosmetic and dermal applications, mainly because of their superior biological activities. In fermentation by microorganisms, the concentration of the useful compound is increased or new phytochemicals are introduced, enhancing their biological activity in anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, wound-healing, anti-melanogenic, and antioxidant applications. The fermented state of Panax ginseng shows higher anti-wrinkle and whitening effects than its non-fermented counterpart. Black ginseng promotes collagen synthesis and inhibits melanogenesis after fermentation. Fermented extracts of Magnolia denudata, organic Indica rice bran, and unpolished Black rice also show very good antioxidant and skin-whitening activities. Hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, and ascorbic acid are acids produced by the fermentation of natural products, forming smaller molecules size that are more effective than high molecular size and able to penetrate deeply into the skin, maintaining its microbiota balance and providing antioxidant protection. Fermented vitamins include B3, A, and E produced through microbial fermentation with added stability and bioactivity to contribute toward better skin health, promotion of absorption, anti-inflammation, and antioxidant properties. Skin health is modulated by its resident microbiota and their metabolites, among which fermented microorganisms have gained interest as active skincare ingredients. It is known that metabolites from skin-associated bacteria improve skin pigmentation and wrinkle appearance, such as Nitrosomonas eutropha, which oxidizes ammonia produced from sweat into nitric oxide derivatives. Similarly, antimicrobial peptide from Enterococcus faecalis strain proved to be potent against Cutibacterium acnes; hence, anti-acne treatments have been commercialized. In addition, Vitreoscilla filiformis found in hot springs significantly ameliorated symptoms of atopic dermatitis and photoaging while Streptococcus thermophilus enhanced levels of the natural ceramides, thereby enhancing skin barrier and hydration.

Keywords
Fermented plant extracts
Anti-melanogenic
Antioxidant protection
Skin barrier
Anti-wrinkle effects
Anti-inflammatory
Wound healing
Skin microbiota balance
Funding
None.
Conflict of interest
The authors declare they have no competing interests.
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